Six Surprising Things About Traveling In India

We recently returned from our first trip to India. We spent a day in Delhi and then 14 days in the country's far south. India was everything we expected, and more—magical, colorful, sometimes chaotic, always enchanting. But despite having consumed a fair amount of popular culture about the country from novels to TV shows, we still found much that was surprising. We share it all with you here.

1. Traffic is complete mayhem. Multiply whatever you've heard by a factor of 10. Drivers ignore lanes and pedestrians. Cars, trucks and auto-rickshaws (the ever-present three-wheeled minicabs) compete for every inch of tarmac, and motorbikes dart in and out of openings you wouldn't think a skinny cat could squeeze through. Indian motorists could easily give Hollywood stunt drivers a run for their money. And all this havoc is carried out with an admirably tolerant spirit. We never saw a crabby driver or an accident, and we could count the number of dented vehicles on three fingers. The takeaway: Unless you are venturing deep into very rural areas and/or have nerves of titanium, don't plan to drive in India.

2. English is not commonly spoken. The country has 22 official languages with differing alphabets that vary by region. People who do speak English tend to have very heavy accents that can be difficult for the Western ear to interpret. We spent a lot of time politely asking people to repeat themselves, and even then, we didn't always get it. There are lots of signs and public announcements in English in larger towns and cities as well as at international and regional airports but the more rural you go the less you'll find. The takeaway: Consider taking a small-sized tour with a guide who can help with communications.

3. Traditional dress is still favored. In cities, you'll see men in Western garb as well as the occasional chap in shorts and a casual shirt, but women wear almost exclusively saris or tunics over legging-style trousers—all of which are in the most gorgeous colors. We did notice a few young women in short dresses or jeans in Delhi and in Pondicherry, which has a bit of a holiday ambiance, but these were rare instances. We (okay, Terry) had anticipated coming home with a curated collection of Indian boho-inspired togs, but clothing shops are few and far between and the only Western-style clothing they sell is for men and young children. In rural areas in the south, men still wear lungis and dhotis, lengths of cloth wrapped around the lower body as either a long or short skirt. The takeaway: As with anywhere you roam, be considerate of local customs. You'll be fine in jeans or slacks with shirts or tees or summery long dresses, but be respectful of local customs and stay away from shorts or skin-baring choices like sleeveless or cropped tops.

4. Indians love sweets. We knew about curries, kormas and samosas (which are savory turnovers) but we had never equated India with sweets—a huge educational hole. You'll find bakeries and sweets shops with uniquely Indian dainties on just about every corner. For starters, there's gulab jamun, a rose water and cardamom-infused donut ball soaked in sweet syrup; burfi, an amazing milk-based fudge with pistachios; and ladoo, melt-in-your-mouth balls of buttery goodness. There are also cakes, puddings, and entire display cases full of other confections waiting to be tasted. Merely scanning the offerings is a treat, and for those of us with sweet teeth, it's like stumbling into heaven. The takeaway: Go ahead and indulge, or at least sneak in a few samples. You won't find these at home.

5. Tap water is not for consumption unless it's been boiled or distilled. This one is nothing new; it's the same mantra savvy travelers adhere to in many parts of the world but it always bears repeating. Use bottled water to rinse after brushing your teeth and keep your mouth closed in the shower so you don't accidentally swallow local H2O, which can be laden with all sorts of illness-causing pathogens. Some upscale hotels provide safe drinking water for guests, but be sure to ask before consuming. It's also a bad idea to consume ice or drinks made with ice such as lassi, a refreshing beverage made with ice and yogurt. Not to worry. We discovered the joy of creamy cold coffee, which doesn't contain ice, is made with boiled water, and is an even better pick-me-up than a frappuccino. The takeaway: It's better to be safe than sorry. If you're not sure, don't consume it.

6. Public restrooms can be an eye-opener. They're very clean (more so than many in the U.S.) but they often don't have Western-style toilets and instead feature holes set into the floor meant to squat over. If you travel with a guide, he or she will know where to find the style we Westerners are familiar with. Even in these, however, you won't find toilet tissue. Instead, there are squirters on hoses with which to clean your undercarriage. The takeaway: If you're like those of us who worry we'll drench our clothing instead, always carry a bit of TP in your pocket, and when you come upon a Western bathroom, take advantage. BTW, no worries at airports and upscale hotels, which are well-equipped for foreigners.

The biggest takeway in all these travel tips is to relax and have fun. Sure, there are surprises but isn't that what travel is all about—stepping outside your norm and experiencing the sights, sounds, and flavors of a different and wondrous world?